Art and Fashion: October 2014

This festive season, flaunt the trending cocktail looks with élan

DRESS IT UP

This festive season, flaunt the trending cocktail looks with élan. We tell you how...

Diwali brings along with it endless parties, get-togethers, fancy dinners and evening dos. Thus, revamping your wardrobe is a must. We bring forth the cocktail looks for this season:

White has always been a hot favourite among fashion istas. An evergreen shade for all sea sons and all occasions, white can create some of the most remarkable looks. And an allwhite cocktail look will surely stand out.

“The colour white adds freshness and calmness to an ensemble. A loosely tied side bun nude makeup with matte red lip, and beige heels complete the evening look,“ says designer Vaishali Shadangule.

This festive season, deck yourself in floor length white dress es paired with cut work jackets. Opt for smooth, flowy silhouettes. As far as accessories are concerned, lay your hands on a pair of golden heels. Also, clutches in hues of gold, silver or red would complement your look. For jewellery, go for danglers and finish it with a bunch of glitzy bracelets.

The all-black cocktail look celebrates timeless elegance. “Be it a semisheer lace skirt paired with a classic, old-fashioned bralet and a sheer sporty bomber, options are galore,“ avers designer Pallavi Singhee.

Black is that one colour, which can be experimented with on a broader spec trum. You can try out various cocktail looks--think of a sporty-sexy look for a stronger appeal or perhaps play around with the silhouettes in a more radiant, flirtatious and nonchalant way for a chic, elegant look! For the upcoming festivities, Singhee suggests an all-black look that will make you stand out, yet allow you to finely blend in.Tiered dresses with interplay of sheer and opaque also look trendy. Keep the accessories minimal for a sexy, elegant look. A pulled-up hair do with ear studs and a cocktail ring should do the trick. If it's a stood up neckline, an embellished neckpiece should be your pick. Also, embroidered collars on dresses look beautiful. The makeup should be focused; highligh either your eyes well with nude lips; or keep the eyes lowkey and wear a darker lip colour.

An all-red cocktail look could be a well-co ordinated, red-themed ensemble.

This look is a statement in itself.However, it doesn't necessarily have to be head-to-toe red; any look wherein red is the highlight can work wonders.

“Silhouettes with drapes are best suited for the festive season with gold embellishments to add a glamorous touch,“ ushers designer Sonia Mehra. Also, you can wear a plain red chiffon sari for an interesting cocktail look.Red gowns in luxurious fabrics are apt for festive evenings too.

“Since we are talk ing about festive months, you can experiment by combining western outfits with traditional jewellery or make a traditional out fit chic with nude makeup and minimal jewellery.

Also, a small clutch with dainty stilettos should be your ideal go to options,“ suggests jew ellery design er Mrinalini Chandra.

Emeralds and gold comple ment the red cocktail dress. To cast a touch of fusion to your look, try wearing polki jewellery with a gown.

Business of fashion

With a discerning sense of fashion and an uncompromising creative vision, meet the industry's most respected fashion entrepreneurs who give us a panoramic view of the business of fashion in India Team

Aparna Badlani, CURATOR AND CO-OWNER, ATOSA Meet Aparna Badlani, curator and co-owner of Atosa--a multi-designer store in Mumbai. She started off as a summer trainee with a women's brand and dabbled with merchan dising and buying. She has worked with some of the biggest design ers in the Indian fashion sphere and at the same time has a unique eye and interest for Indian local craftsmanship. She gets chatty about all things fashionable and the new designers to look out.

Fashion trends
The festive market in our country looks promising; the Indian culture is intrinsically linked to its festivals.While the economy has not been at it's best and that could be a dampener in the magnitude of celebration, we are really hoping for a good season. Long kurtas with sharara pants or even voluminous flared skirts are now popular.The dhoti looks very promising for women when teamed with short or long jackets for an added edge.
Rise of concept stores
We are a growing and emerging market as far as luxury retail goes. It was only a matter of time before niche stores and boutiques entered the retail world. I'm absolutely thrilled with this new trend and stores like these then become landmarks or destinations in a city!
Close watch
For the festive season, I would look at Priyadarshini Rao's new collection. I enjoyed her Ode to Indigo collection; there is something in it for everyone. Anju Modi is another favourite; amongst the new lot, Gaga by Tanya Sharma, is a designer to watch out for.

Season's favourite trends
Patterns and sheer are big trends. This sea son is seeing longer lengths; longer skirt hemlines, floor length dresses, and even long kurtas are making a domi nant presence.

Business of fashion
The fashion indus try in India is still pretty much a baby.
It needs to become more organised in terms of timelines and deliveries.
We are a strong, emerging con sumer market and we need to grow and to have the options.
Charu Sachdev, FOUNDER AND CEO, KITSCH
Another pioneer in the business of fashion and luxury retail is, Charu Sachdev, founder and chief executive of the Sachdev Group. She brings in the latest from the world's top luxury fash ion and lifestyle brands for Indian fashion connoisseurs. With Kitsch, she seeks to put together beautiful, well-crafted and exquisitely designed clothes and accessories. Here, she reveals how she picks brands for Kitsch and her success story so far.
Rise of curated stores
Today, the global citizen desires a wellcurated shopping experience and on-trend labels and styles, in an anchoring environment that binds it all together and that's exactly what new concept locations are focusing on.Concept stores are built on quick identification of and response to fashion trends through its design, lineage or popularity, and quality.

Success story
Kitsch is a version of an international concept store with an Indian heart. As consumer-shopping habits are rapidly evolving and retailers are looking to innovate, brands are embracing the idea of incorporating concept stores and making fashion more fascinating. It is all about establishing an architectural landmark; facilitating a lifestyle that is yours.
Festive trends
People are loving colours at the moment.Cocktail dresses are a hot favourite among women, while men are experimenting with their shirts and going for more classic options in trousers and blazers.
New favourites
Marchesa, Saint Laurent Paris (YSL), Chloe, the limited edition line from Atsu and the select Morphe edition for Kitsch.
Business of fashion
India is a very interesting market and the Indian cus tomer is becom ing increasingly aware about fashion brands.The lack of infrastructure and quality human resources limit the brick and mortar business.Besides several hurdles such as real estate, interstate movement of goods, varied VAT structures, it has been exciting to recreate the same ethos of Kitsch in the virtual world through its online avatar.
Tina Tahiliani, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, ENSEMBLE
Tina Tahiliani Parikh owns one of India's most well-known and pre mier haute couture stores, Ensemble, in Mumbai. From being a finan cial analyst to working as executive director at Ensemble since 1990, she has turned the multi-designer store into a true power house with an ideal mix of fashion and retail business at its heart.
We ask her about the good and bad of the business of fashion and her role in it.
India and Fashion
There's been an explosion of talent and a sense of discipline that's emerged--thanks to the fashion weeks in the fashion industry.In addition, there is a new sense of revival in researching and furthering the clothing legacy that we have in our country. Today, people are appreciating fashion far more consciously and seriously than before. There are several new-age fashion stores hitting the Indian shores, along with the numerous fashion weeks, which have made the indus try much more organised with every retailer defining their niche. Frankly, the buying power has increased tremendously and so have mindsets.
Taste is difficult to comment on, but you will always have your minority with exquisite taste.
Ensemble, so far
Ensemble is an Indian platform for fashion and design. We represent the best of Indian fashion in five categories: accessories, casual chic, resort wear, occasion wear and bridal wear. We present them in an atmosphere that is elegant, beauti ful and relaxed with efficient per sonalised service .
Demand and supply
I feel, we are still very much a des tination for many shoppers. We have a unique identity, which stems from being very discerning of who we carry, how we promote them, quality control, how we edit the collection, service, and the shopping experience.
Advice for new designers
Focus on margins and smart de sign. The key is to develop a signa ture look and remember that PR and branding is very important in today's world.

design guru Tommy Hilfiger's interview

To commemorate his brand's 10th anniversary in India, we caught up with design guru Tommy Hilfiger to find out more about the Indian chapter and the road ahead

Relaxed and amicable, Tommy Hilfiger looked every bit happy and elated with the celebrations of his brand's 10-year-old stint in India.Speaking about his longstanding association with the country, he reminisces about his first visit and says, “I visited India in 1979 and have been coming eversince.India is much more modern and sophisticated now; everything is on another level and is world-class.“

EXCERPTS:
Looking back
It's been 10 years in India.When we came here, we were one of the first designer brands to enter and the business has grown unbelievably over the years.Lovers of the brand here are no different than in any other city in the world, be it London or New York. I find the young generation here very fashionable in a cool sense and becoming more stylish and suave. Fashion is an evolving cycle and it's moving ahead quickly.Sometimes we look back into films, music or history for ideas and inspiration, but making a modern effort today is the key.

Tryst with India
I love the traditional saris and kurta pajamas. They are very special and are worn for special occasions, so can be called occasionwear. Indian fashion, currently, is here to stay when it comes to traditional wear. However, the younger generation is now willing to experiment. Today, in every single collection, we are infusing some Indian influence, especially Indian prints or colours. Paisleys are my favourite; we use them very often in our collections, besides many other India-inspired motifs.As India loves colours, we have a palette of colours like purple, orange, yellow, etc., too which are a part of the Indian heritage. The influence largely comes from saris and Jaipur; I am dying to go visit Jaipur and Goa sometime at leisure.

Talking business
Fashion is a big business worldwide. Indian designers have to reach the international stage and have to become more market savvy.I personally feel that Indian designers have an edge over other designers in the world as they have everything at their fingertips--incredible jewellery-making, shoe manufacturing facilities, best fabrics and accessories, tailors, and factories. We come to India for a large gamut of operations, such as embroidery, manufacturing of clothes, handloom cottons and export a lot too. In future, we plan to get merchandise for homes for our Indian customers too.
Advice for designers
It's important to have an individual or a signature look. You will soon disappear if you don't stand out as something special in the world of fashion.

REDEFINING MENSWEAR

MEN'S TRENDS - THE SARTORIALIST

Menswear, especially on the Indian fashion map, is witnessing a seismic shift in sensibilities and customer preferences. Brave, willing to experiment and a roving eye for trends, the male wardrobe is finding its spot

Much like fashion trends for women, you can't zero in on any one hot trend for men either. There are so many to pick from for various occasions and with the festivities round the corner, one is spoilt for choice.

REDEFINING MENSWEAR
The trend buffet is tossing up a mélange of styles for the Indian man. As ace designer Raghavendra Rathore puts it, “The menswear clientele in India is getting more self-conscious and aware with time.“ The gap between keeping ethnic wear strictly that and flaunting contemporary attire is thinning. Men are willing to embrace the term `fusion wear' and `mix and match' a lot more today. “The next-big-thing is where a true confluence in ideas results in a contemporary Indian style that is not `ethnic' or `western' but is a true synthesis and has a global identity and relevance,“ asserts Tarun Tahiliani, a designer par excellence.

BACK TO THE CLASSICS
The age-old classics are crawling back. The humble dhoti, for example, is doing the rounds. “The last time I wore a dhoti was about 15-18 years back and now I am wearing it again, thanks to the draping expertise. One can wear pre-draped pants and dhotis and keep the elegance of yesteryears alive, however, in a contemporary way,“ adds Tarun. Raghavendra's collection at the India Bridal Fashion Week 2014 had dhoti as the forerunner while Shantanu & Nikhil showcased sophisticated structure through their unique pairing of drape skirts. A variety of drapes have brought forth panoply of silhouettes that menswear has never seen in mainstream fashion.Taking inspiration from Rajasthani royalty, designer Dhruv Sehgal states that Nehru jackets, hip-length coats, Jodhpuri bandhgalas are classics that do not go out of style.Ujjwal Dubey of Antar-Agni, whose WinterFestive 2014 collection had a sassy Indo-modern sway, says that it's classics all the way but with a twist. These styles find presence off the runways too, as Srinivasa Rao, head of marketing, Lifestyle International Pvt. Ltd, says, “Nehru jackets on a short kurta sported with denims is an elegant ensemble for casual events.“
BEJEWELLED PALETTE
Jewelled hues have been ubiquitous this season. JJ Valaya's collection boasted of antique shades, metallics and neutrals in symphony with Indian brights to create drama and detail. Shantanu & Nikhil sported soft grays, scarlet reds, indigo blues with a touch of brightness and bitter chocolate. “Everything from mint greens and sunny yellows to burnt maroons, oranges and every hue in between works for men today,“ explains designer Pawan Sachdeva.

CASUAL ALERT
Wearability and comfort are at the forefront when it comes to menswear. Srinivasa predicts, “Plaids and nauticals are dominating this season with interesting adaptations in shirts, jackets, pants and even shoes.Colour-blocks and Indigo are making a cool style statement.Americana is another trend that's baseball-inspired and baseball jackets and jerseys are becoming an interesting change. Quirky prints, graphic tees and distressed denims are also gaining popularity.“Add interesting elements by throwing on a sharply deconstructed jacket or an impeccably stylised political jacket to channelise the sophisticated look with élan,“ advises fashion designer Nivedita Saboo. The waistcoat is becoming yet another versatile and popular trend this season.

THE FESTIVE CHECKLIST
Moderation is vital when it comes to playing dress-up this season.Make this season fashionable by throwing on a splash of colours, boasting a trend and celebrating the joie de vivre. With the right ensemble, you simply can't go wrong. Nivedita sums up the musthaves of the season. “A versatile deconstructed dinner jacket can be dressed up or down suiting the occasion. A traditional ensemble always looks good. Stylise outfits with bright accessories to infuse fun into a suitable get up.“
So, get up and put your festive gear in place to make a dapper statement.

FIVE FASHION DESIGNERS GIVE US AN INSIGHT ON WHAT YOU NEED IN YOUR CLOSET THIS FESTIVE SEASON

TREND FORECAST - F ASHION'S FAVOURITE

Step into this festive season looking as glamorous as ever. Take a cue from these trendsetting looks shared by ace designers as they decode the über-stylish trends for FallWinter 2014

FIVE FASHION DESIGNERS GIVE US AN INSIGHT ON WHAT YOU NEED IN YOUR CLOSET THIS FESTIVE SEASON

QUIRKBOX: THE STATEMENT JACKET
Jackets are a winter favourite. This season, the jacket, takes centre stage and almost becomes the hero of the ensemble. Be it in prints, pop hues, embellished, textured and longer lengths, jackets are a versatile option. Go semiformal with a tank top, skinny denims and metallic pumps, or co-ordinate with a shift or baby-doll dress for a vintage and formal feel. Be bold and wear the jacket with Indian kurta and patiala salwar teamed with chandelier earrings for a quirky, ethnic transformation. Keep the accessories simple and classic and work with brooches for added style.

TANYA SHARMA: SPORTSWEAR GLAM IN ETHNIC WEAR
Make way for sportswear glam blending into ethnic festive glamour. For a tomboy at heart, this trend is just the perfect option to set eyes on. Don't compromise on your personality to fit into a pair of stiletto heels, instead wear comfortable sneakers.For a wedding or an Indian event, make a dash for bright Indian colours and avoid neons. Club a sweatshirt with your lehenga and some intricate gold-studded jewellery.

ROCKY S: EVENING GOWN
Opt for an elegant corset-fitted gown in black, embellished with silver crystal and stone work.
Meant to be worn for elegant gatherings or classy, social dos, the look will set you right for any red carpet event, cocktail, or a sophisticated party.
With a look and dress as rich and elegant, pair it with similar accessories; a pair of studded with similar accessories; a pair of studded earrings, a studded box clutch, and subtle makeup. Choose from peep-toes, sky high heels and hand cuffs to finish the look.

DEBASHRI SAMANTA: OFFBEAT PANTS
Grab onto the wrap or knotted pants to get all the attention you want this season. The best thing about both these styles is that they can accommodate up to two sizes. Another trendy feature is that they can be worn as high-waisted as well as low-waisted style.
For a high-waist style, pair it with a crop top or a crop jacket. For a low waist style, pair it with a peplum or an Indo western short kurta.

VAISHALI S: HIGHWAISTED DHOTI PANTS, ANGRAKHA JACKET, BIKINI INNER
Give way to an attire comprising a dhoti, angrakha jacket and a bikini top, which illustrates a combination of traditional attire with a modern silhouette. Put together a collage of colours and patches on your outfit to create a pattern that reflects your personality. The entire look can be carried as day wear or as evening wear. The angrakha jacket can be worn as a jacket or as a top with trouser or denim pants, while the dhoti can be worn with a casual top or an ethnic kurta. Make the look casual or formal to suit any kind of occasion.

flawless, festive look

GO GLAM

Lakme makeup expert Daniel Bauer decodes the looks on our cover girl Esha Gupta. With the festivities in full swing, brush up on the latest trends to achieve that flawless, festive look

BIG HAIR

LOOK 1
Prep your hair with a good shampoo and conditioner. Apply some Tresemme volume lift extra body mousse to your hair and blow-dry it. Blow-dry in all directions to create a messy and voluminous look. Create a deep side-parting to the crown and apply some heat protector to the hair. Take small sections on each side (vary the width from four to two fingers) and tong them. Tong away from your head, starting around the chin length, tonging the remaining hair only. Vary each section from clockwise to anticlockwise. A good rule is to put your hand on your hair as its tonging, release when you find it too hot. Use hair spray once the final look is in place. For added volume on the crown, you can back comb or tease the sections.

FLAWLESS FOUNDATION
LOOK 2
For this look, pull your hair back from the face into a bun and let the focus be on your face. Start with prepping your skin with the Lakme Absolute Gloss Serum. Use a foundation, closest to your skin tone, contouring it lighter around the cheekbones and down the neckline. To give the cheeks a subtle shine, add a dab of Lakme Absolute Face Stylist Blush Duos.Use a daring pink lipstick (here it's the Lakme Absolute Gloss Addict Very Berry). Depending on your personality, you can use a deeper tone of red. To complete the overall gloss look, a deep red nail polish (Gel Stylist-Scarlet red) is just what you need.

BOLD EYES, UNDERSTATED LIPS
LOOK 3
To create striking eyes, use the Lakmé Absolute Colour Illusion Pearl Eye Shadow for a shimmery glow, both on the upper lid and a little on the bottom eyelid to contour and to get striking eyes. Finish off with dark-coloured eyeliner with Lakme Absolute Gel Addict (shade Must Have).Never have your eyes and mouth compete, so with suggestive eyes, keep the lips subtle. Add a hint of sheen with Lakme Absolute Gloss Addict in Nude Glow.Complement it with nude nails; the natural Lakme Absolute Gel Stylist Peach Schnapps is perfect.

On a festive high...

It's a sheer vision to see how the-girl next-door transforms herself lucidly into this glamorous diva, exuding an unmistakable air of confidence and sophistication, as she steps in front of the camera. As we see her transcend into the myriad moods and characters while shooting, there's just one thought that comes to my mind--how does she blend in simplicity with indulgent style and perfection?
However, there are two sides to Esha.The one in the public eye--as she comes out of a five hour photoshoot still looking like a diva--ultra-sexy and talented. While the other, who gets back into her distressed boyfriend jeans, tank top, flip flops and a Michael Kors sling bag, going back to the typical girl-next-door. You can't miss her bubbling energy as the rendezvous continues and her positive aura engulfs the room. What strikes you in spurts about her is how she evokes a mix of a young Parveen Babi and Sophia Loren and not just another item girl. Esha, who's a vegetarian, loves her water and fruit, which she consumes after every shot during the shoot. As we speak, it's hard not to notice that she's always aware of her surroundings, even catching the chaiwalla trying to sneak in a picture of her from his phone. Her power pout and blemishfree, honey-toned skin, illuminated by the soft lights, at the studio is what prompts me to ask about her skincare regime.“I am blessed because of my mother; she has good hair and skin despite undergoing medication. I got blessed with great genes, but apart from that, it's all the water I drink. My friends call me tanki when it comes to my water intake; they often ask me, registaan se aayi hai kya?“ I ask her about the one thing she's learnt in the movie business over the years and she corrects me, “It has only been two years, so I am still learning.“Esha has been modelling since 2007 and is an ex-Femina Miss India [2007]. She lets us in on working in Bollywood: “I have learnt to keep my head down and keep working. You either have someone who is looking out for you or you don't. If there is no one looking out for you, then the best thing is to do as you like. I had no one and I did it on my own. It's best to keep going rather than wishing for a Godfather.“
As she innately takes to fashion and style, her fashion experiments have time and again revealed her modern and versatile sensibilities. No surprise that she has now been roped in as the brand ambassador of Splash, (a Middle-Eastern fashion retailer with 11 outlets in India), and has designers chomping at the bit to dress her, even the magazines can't get enough of this Indian Angelina Jolie.
While on the topic of fashion, Esha expresses how happy she is with the current level of India's fashion industry.“It's progressing at a very fast pace... but I just wish that people continue progressing and keep it minimalistic instead of going OTT.“ She's also very proud of the way traditional Indian clothing like saris, bandhgalas and dhotis have inspired international designers. On whether she'd like to be someone's muse, she promptly responds, “I would love to be Sabyasachi's muse. Though my style is suited for a Manish Arora or Falguni and Shane Peacock, being his muse would be a dream-come-true.“ The mere mention of Bollywood and Esha promptly reflects on her film career, “Raaz was actually my favourite and has had more impact on my career. Vikram [Bhatt] really worked hard on me, he is one of the best directors I have worked with. But the one that means the most to me is Jannat because that was my first film and will always remain close to my heart... I remember more about my first flim than the latest one--Humshakals--as everything was new and memorable.“
Speaking about her contemporaries, she admits, “I love Ranveer Singh and Ranbir Kapoor. Shahid Kapoor in Haider is fabulous.“ Esha shows her dedication to her career by living a balanced life and preferring to go to bed on time, rather than having a late night-out with friends.It's hard to ignore her toned body and I quiz her about her fitness regime. “I've gone back to dancing, yoga and heavyweight training. I am not on a diet at the moment. But when I am dieting, I follow up with something healthy every two hours. I am lactose intolerant, so I avoid dairy and consume more of greens, being a vegetarian.“
With the festive months around the corner, Esha likes spending time with her family especially during Diwali, only if her work allows that kind of leisure. Festive style is all about comfort dressing for her, “A nice, light Indian suit or sari works wonders,“ she mentions.
With one eye on her immediate future and the other on her long-term wishes, she says, “I am excited about my next film which we cannot discuss right now.“ And then adds, “getting married and having babies... I don't know,“ she laughs off.

Structured ensembles that encapsulate style and elegance

Avant garde designer designer Sounia Gohil launches her new autumn winter collection this season. Think dreamy weddings, vintage detailing and rich fabrics, the collection is a an assortment of feminine resort wear, sarees,lehengas and separates. Combining beautiful silhouettes crafted in lycra, twill and satin drapes, her structured pieces encapsulate style and elegance.Unique embellishments and motifs in warm and regal palettes define the bridal collection while soft pinks, mint and sorbet colours rule the resort wear line. The western line comprises classic clean cuts, jackets and gowns each designed to flatter various body types. At her flagship store in Khar, she also customises outfits for the brides-to-be for their big day giving personal attention to every detail. Where: Sounia Gohil, Joy Villa, Ground floor , 19th Road, Khar(W) .
Call: 022 65342562