Art and Fashion: Raj-era jewellery sparkles globally

Raj-era jewellery sparkles globally

From Selena Gomez to Heidi Klum to the ramps in Paris — baubles from the era of Maharajas are a huge hit. Nona Walia traces the reach of the trend

    THIS season, as the gold rate takes a dip, Indian jewellery is making a style statement with dramatic designs. Hollywood divas Heidi Klum, Halle Berry and Megan Fox have been spotted in Indian bling with western wear. Popstar Selena Gomez wore a bindi, Indian necklace and bangles while performing at the MTV Movie Awards.
    From hasli necklaces to nose rings, armlets and turban jewels — Manish Arora’s show at Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013 had models flaunting them all. Says Arora, “Traditional designs were used with bold coloured stones, cuffs and necklaces had detailed enamel work. We didn’t stick to the usual bangles, but reinvented turban jewels, nose rings and large hoop earrings.”
India-inspired bling Connecticut-based jewellery designer Alexis Gopal’s 3-inch wide, adjustable ‘India Cuff Bracelet,’ made from recycled silk sari fabric, was part of a collaborative swag bag of green gifts prepared by The Artisan Group for some of Hollywood’s most eco-conscious celebrities. Says Gopal, “The beauty and ethnicity of the recycled sari fabric was the inspiration for this bracelet, and the Hollywood folks loved it.”
    Manhattan-based jewellery designer Amrita Singh’s Indian jewels have been worn by Princess Mary of Denmark, Anne Hathway, Blake Lively and Christina Hendricks. “There is a rise in Polki jewellery which has a vintage Maharaja appeal. My India inspiration comes from history, bazaars and Bollywood. There’s a huge demand for delicate and rich Mughal-inspired style with a modern deco flair.” She uses a lot of yellow gold with vibrant stones such as rubies, amethyst and topaz. Jade Jagger’s jewellery has also been India-inspired. “My designs tiptoe between earthy and modern, with necklaces, rings and bracelets set in gold, emeralds and diamonds. One collection features the rudraksha prayer beads on a variety of necklaces.”
Mecca for designs Says London-based couture jewellery designer Pippa Small, “India is my second home. Jaipur is the mecca for my designs.” Says New York-based jeweller Rosena Sammi, “I try to give my jewellery a modern aesthetic with historical opulence, like with the necklace modelled on poet Rabindranath Tagore. I’m also inspired by the Mughal era and Rajasthani craft, and use Sanskrit text.’’
Unparalleled inspiration Adeline Roussel offers to Paris the jewellery she herself fabricates in India. Her work is a mixture of the East and the West. She says, “I work with 22-carat gold and rosequartz, cornelian, chalcedony, garnet, ruby tourmaline. The inspiration I get at my workshop in Jaipur is unparalleled.” Says Londonbased jeweller Emma Chapman, “The colours of India are visible in the stones I use. My design style is inspired by Indian craftsmen.”